Angel battery problems

P0305 is a cylinder 5 misfire. If your start-stop feature works then the battery is still good. I would read your owners manual to understand more about your battery system.

Maybe this will help ---- http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1087578_2014-chevrolet- malibu-start-stop-system-how-it-works-and-why-it-has-2-batteries

The start-stop works sometimes and the start with the remote stop working

I would have both batteries tested. Also check the battery connections for corrosion.

I will. Thank you very much

disconnect one of the batteries and do a voltage check ... the voltage should be very close to each other

This is a common problem and is usually only resolved by replacing the fuse block on top of your main battery...dual battery control module, dual battery isolation module as well as the last 1.5 feet of negative battery terminal. Some people get lucky with easier fixes, there’s a service bulletin that can guide you through it Service bulletin https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC- 10161882-9999.pdf Thread discussion https://www.chevymalibuforum.com/threads/p305f- check-engine-code.106833/

Ok, have a 2014 Chevrolet Malibu LS 2.5L 4-cylinder. I am here to help out explain certain things about DTC's P305F, P058D and/or P058B. First of all there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that is available for this issue. Not much is really explained to well as is expected. It says to check wiring, connectors Battery Negative sensor, Dual Battery Control module and auxiliary battery that normally sits in the trunk if not other places. My personal experience of this was I initially had P305F and P058B show up on my scan tool. I first looked up and researched for days, weeks and months and for the life of me could not figure much about it out. I first had my main and auxiliary batteries load tested they both were good to go, then kept digging and digging, because normally you have the p305f code show up, people usually say ohhh, its auxiliary battery problem. Not always the case, it can be linked to many other things at times as well like Dual Battery Control Module (DBCM) which links to many things including the auxiliary battery as well. 1. Check your terminals to both batteries, make sure they are correctly mounted and tight connections, no looseness. 2. Check your voltage, amperage and continuity readouts with a multimeter and/or amp meter as well. Get your batteries, alternator and starter load tested at your local auto parts store, if they offer that service for no charge. You could very well have bad items in the car but most all items have to still be in the vehicle when tested. 3. Check for the 5 amp fuse in a little black rubber type thing that sits on top in the middle of the main battery, it sits under like bracket on top of the battery. It may be blown. Also check the loop current sensor that sits on the negative ground cable too as well as the negative battery sensor that sits on the negative terminal too. Check all your grounds as well and positive terminals too. 4. There is a positive terminal connection that goes to the main fuse box in the engine compartment too, so check all wires as best as possible, there could be burnt, melted, frayed wires (cables.) 5. In order to check and/or remove things, you will have to move some components out of the way, but do your best to make sure all is tight and not too much play or anything wrong or out of the ordinary either. There is mention in the TSB to replace DBCM as well as the wiring harness connected to it. As well, there is mention of making sure a ground wire isn't too close to the negative battery terminal sensor. If a person doesn't feel comfortable doing this or whatever the reason, you will have to go to the dealership and mess with that, plus pay out the nose for diagnosis, labor, and parts. I spent about 1,000 bucks total for a quarter of my dealership to give me a new main battery, but they couldn't figure out other things without computer and DTC's. So come to find out, had a bad positive cable to my fuse box which had continuity too to the other points. I then did my own further diagnosis as well and found needed a new alternator, positive and negative cables to alternator, starter, battery, engine block and stuff. Even found a blown 5 amp fuse too. Had replaced the loop current sensor, the negative terminal sensor and DBCM and auxiliary battery too. Its alot of work and strain, but if you are willing to save money and get your hands into the nitty gritty, just figure out what's happening with it. Good luck to whatever you all decide.