truck runs rough when it warms up

Asked by summitseaker Mar 22, 2016 at 06:03 PM about the 2004 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCrew

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

i have a 2004 f150 with a 4.6 engine . the truck runs fine when i first start it but
once it warms up it start to sputter  when i give it the gas. the engine light is on
but not blinking. any suggestions?

17 Answers

74,180

IAC, dirty throttle body, bad spark plug(s), spark plug wires, etc. You have to begin a process of elimination. First, get the code read from a place like autozone. It would lead you into a direction.

17 people found this helpful.
35,285

Hate to break it to u but u have phaser issues. It's a system that is used to automatically adjust timing on each camshaft and they work with oil pressure. When cold the oil viscocity is good as it worms up, oil viscosity drops and oil pressure drops below 25psi and phasers can't do their thing. Check oil pressure with a pressure gauge

30 people found this helpful.
340

I have the same problem I have replaced phasers timing chain ( because it broke) also changed the oil,oil pump, and filter put new coil pack in and it's still running rough when it warms up

22 people found this helpful.
35,285

Check oil pressure, it probably drops after it gets warmed up. If pressure drops below 30psi, the phasers won't work because they work with oil pressure. If it's low, u have internal engine wear. Time for rebuilt engine

5 people found this helpful.
340

Oil pressure stays up and is fine I was told to change the oil every 500 miles until it clears out all the tiny metal shavings they were clogging up the small screens on the phasers does this make since

12 people found this helpful.
35,285

Well if the screens on phasers are clogged up, changing the oil is not gonna get rid of it. you would have to remove the phasers are rinse the screens to clean them but yes, if screens are dirty, it will cause it to miss cause they work with oil pressure. They're easy to remove. If you do, just make sure you secure the allen socket to the extension otherwise you can drop the tool inside and it'll be a nightmare to find it

17 people found this helpful.
35,285

By the way, not the phasers but the solenoid valves that activate the phasers. They're mounted one each end of the valve covers. 1ea.

14 people found this helpful.
255

Believe me, been there done that, after replacing all but 2 sensors, and then getting ready to replace the fuel pump. Accidentally bumped the kick panel where the computer is, found out I had one of the harnesses come loose from the computer, check all of your computer connections first, I believe

25 people found this helpful.
170

Did you ever find the issue to this problem? I’m having the same issue with an 05 5.4 3valve. Any thing will help

17 people found this helpful.
160

Chevy guy 1993 i went through the same exact thing I replaced everything fuel pumps coils plugs everything still stalling these trucks have a built-in fuel pump to the fuse box and I happen to be the whole fuse box on these soon as I replace that never an issue again. I always thought it was when the motor got warm but it's not its the cab inside getting warm. Trying blasting the heat see if stalls quicker.

15 people found this helpful.
380

I got an 04 f150 5.4L with 147k miles. Started running like crap, no lights come in till you get to high speeds(70+mph) then it acts like it’s got nothing left to push harder, then the check engine light comes on and blinks(code reader says cylinder 1 severe misfire). I just changed all spark plugs and coil packs and cylinder 1 injector and it’s like it did absolutely nothing.. I’m out of options is here something I’m missing?

38 people found this helpful.
20

Did you figure it out? My 05 does the same thing

2 people found this helpful.
50

I was having the same problems is all of y'all are stating it wound up being my catalytic converter mine would start up and drive perfect for about 20 minutes The Inn at Winstar clattering like it was starting to knock missing real bad would not really want to go past 4000 RPM we change the timing chain tensioner valve cover timing sensor nothing change I pulled the y-pipe cleaned out catalytic converters like a new truck

5 people found this helpful.
30

I sparks changed about 20k miles ago. Clean throttle body, no change. Solenoid valves. Then knocking so changed the timing belt and phasers (Tentioner gasket was shot and guides where broken, needed it) also changed the oil pump with the recommended upgrade. Now truck runs smooth as silk. BUTT, will not idle when it gets up to mid range temperature and has to be there awhile.

3 people found this helpful.
20

Most of the time it's 1st not what fixes it, but what causes it. Why is it doin it. Ford says idle oil pressure should be 18 min. So i have 18psi n all sensors replaced, but only runs well above 2krpm (why?) maybe because i have "necessary" oil pressure. 151k miles (?) i don't need engine O/H i use almost -0- oil between changes as I do my own. So why. Maybe I'm losin pressure, but where? After many hours wasted on internet mechanics I've read that the Ford Timing Chain Tensioners are made of PLASTIC and bolted to the block or head and the the small gasket for some reason some times fails to hold pressure so when the engine is cool the oil is just thick enough not to bypass the gasket but as it warms we lose pressure. Could be the gasket, the plastic like aluminum and steel all expand and contract differently thus creating increased tolerances ... leaking. I'm going to replace mine with Melling steel tensioners and a melling oil pump which has higher pressure that Ford's OEM pump. Pain in da butt, but a few $$ n a few hours i really believe will fix it. JUST MY THINKIN, YER ON YER OWN! PO

2 people found this helpful.
10

my expedition was driving similar and i changed the throttle body position sensor and cleaned the throttle body and the problem never came back.

1 people found this helpful.

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