0 volts but good fuse at 10 amp ignition fuse under hood

Asked by Jesse Nov 08, 2023 at 05:11 AM about the 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier LS Coupe FWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Also does the hood Release have electricity running through it because the
wires were wedged

21 Answers

310,255

Doubtful, if they were wedged enough it would have caused a short and blown a fuse so then no voltage. Zero volts say that a main fuse has been blown or a main cable has failed if you battery is good. So get you voltmeter and start checking fuses cables and control switches.

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That's that's exactly what ended up happening and I blew the crank relay and got one delivered today I still have no crank though and now half my fuses are all reading zero but it's weird they're not necessarily bad they're just reading zero any ideas what that could be ignition Maybe because that's the fuse that it started with showing zero... I uploaded a couple of pictures the black wire I'm holding it's completely Hollow and it goes into the wiring harness with all the other wires and I'm just wondering like what is this how could this be possible it's completely Hollow

This second picture shows you the crack in my hood release wire but I'm still not sure if it doesn't seem like power goes to it but it is there's a electrical connector in front of my car that goes right next to the actual hood latch and the picture of the second one the broken wire that runs under my battery platform and pretty much touches metal the whole way

But either way now about half my fuses are out and I have no no crank situation now... I thought the crank relay would solve that but it didn't

310,255

That looks like a vent, drain or even a windshield washer tube not a wire. Some of the older GM's had fuselinks down by the starter attached to the main power lug. might check to see if yours has them.

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157,615

I agree, check the wiring down by the starter. Jim

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Okay so I found three shorts so far here's one connection that the plug-in had four plugs and the device it plugged into had a different setup it was like three and then one instead of two and two so it didn't match up right and it shorted so I just straight wired them and the wire that's broken in the picture above that's definitely the hood latch wire so if it doesn't get electricity then that's that's good okay but the key still doesn't do anything so I took the ignition out last night and I had a short in the actual turning of the key like if I just jiggle the ignition it would start beeping like the door was open or something without even having the key in it or obviously without doing anything else like opening the door but I would get the door bell so I took the ignition out and try to rewire that but I don't know if that would cause it to not turn over I don't know but and that probably wouldn't cause all the fuses to still be out so I guess I'm going to try looking towards the starter like you guys are saying I'm going to try to post one more photo of the relay type fuse that I found in the front end that I think you guys were talking about

This photo shows the short where they tried to plug in a plug that had three wires on one row and two wires on the second row and then the other side of the plug only had two and two so I don't know what someone was thinking but obviously that was another short but when I rewired them they didn't fix the issue with the fuses so I'm still on the hunt for that I was reading another forms and I someone said a pink wire that runs under the steering wheel to the wiring harness is the problem so I got to check that out too

See this yellow plug to the left is that what you guys were talking about

The thing that drives me crazy is that all the fuses are good they're just the top two rows are not showing any voltage other than like 01 or 02 and my battery is showing 13 almost and so it's not a blown fuse problem so I don't know what the hell it is... someone said it has something to do with this but I don't know how to read these

157,615

Ok, so the wiring at the hood latch needs to be inspected for damage and repaired if needed. Then the wiring harness needs to be correctly routed so it's not getting squished by the hood. Looks like some body damage so that might be a little difficult. The highlighted part of your wiring diagram is power going OUT of the ignition switch. You need to check for power coming INTO the ignition switch at the red wire that's on the top left of your diagram. If you don't have power there you need to go back to the next junction and check for power there, and so on. Once you get power you'll know about where the problem is and you can check in between where you do and don't have power. You should also look at the starting circuit as well. Have you checked the neutral safety switch? Is there a possibility that the security system is involved? Jim

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Best Answer Mark helpful

I was under the impression that that 2002 Cavalier does not have a inertia switch or a fuel safety switch.....ps ty for responding because I also checked every fuse and every wire I could get to and there's only one thing that's standing out. . I found the wire with the diode in it under the dash and I did it not a continuity check but a resistance check and there's electricity going both directions I thought main reason for a diode was so electricity could only go One Direction so maybe that's my problem I'm still at 7:00 in the morning and I've been reading stuff all night and been out there all weekend so I'm beat but like I said before I really really appreciate the response

Quick question though if you're saying work your way backwards to the relays then there's no reason to really even check if it's happening at the ignition right because I assume they come off the relays and then power the fuses on the way to the steering column that's how I would assume that it was done but and if that was the case then the fuses aren't getting voltage and so I would just work my way back from the fuses?

Because the ignition is getting power it turns to dash up and lights everything up when I turn the key on

This is the crank that's attached to the starter is this wire that's at the first wire you see that's bolted on to I think the negative terminal of the crank too long and touching something it shouldn't be? Thanks again

Something else also started happening that was really weird the dome light comes on when I stop and then when I get to about 10 miles an hour it turns off

Oh I need the front of the car I took all the wiring off that harness and checked the five volts and that I am getting and everything's fine with all that wiring it's in perfect condition even though it got squished when someone ran into something doing like 10 miles an hour that plug and everything is in good shape it's just from the fuse box to the relay it seems like which is like 3 inches away it's crazy I don't know what's going on

157,615

The last picture you posted is of the starter. Both terminals are positive. The starter is grounded by being bolted to the engine. So there is no negative bolt or terminal. Also, in my previous post, I was referring to the ignition switch on your wiring diagram. Not inertia switch. It appears that this repair is beyond your capabilities at this time. I would suggest having it repaired by your local mechanic and in the meantime continue learning and studying about auto repair so next time something like this pops up you will be able to fix it at that time. Modern vehicles have dangerous parts connected to their electrical systems. The airbag system, for example, can kill you if not handled correctly. Which, by the way, you've been poking around dangerously close to. The issue of your dome light coming on when you step on the brake sounds like a bad ground. Somewhere. Good luck to you and please be safe!! Jim

Jim it's kinda like trial by fire... Understanding that fire is hot. But the necessary tttrrips to feed animals and obviously other things outweighs the concern of being kind by an Airbag which isn't AR all to take lightly but if you knew my back story it would actually be Quite Comical lol......Meaning surviving just the 1 yr laying in bed with shattered everything a Colostomy bag and half my foot missing from the engine coming through the firewall and pinning my foot to the floor of the Vehicle. I know first hand the dangers a vehicle couuld cause to the human body. since I had entirely way to much time contemplating everything under the sun...staring at the ceiling wondering how and why being a passenger of a vehicle could possibly end with me in the predicament I found myself.... So you see the Irony if after all that I end up 6 ft under because of something so trivial as to forgetting to take thee ground wire off before the steering column and you see my meaning... Not that I don't appreciate the warnings. I do and I thank you for the thoughtfulness you envoke!!!! If only the world had more humans with that mentality we might be in better shape......lol..... Having said all that I have to ask so no ones touched this since I bought it from a friend's diseased grandmother with 50,000 miles 10 yrs ago.... Other than me and I haven't touched/replaced/serviced the starter or crank since I bought it.... So let me load more pictures to see if maybe your mistaken because I can't imagine the factory connecting it wrong....? By the way I did take it to a shop and they told me to replace the fuel pump after I told them I just replaced it 2 months ago and charged me and telling and everything else that's what leads a person to go down the road I'm at now.. and I asked that shop to do just diagnostic I said to them I'll fix it just tell me why the voltage is wrong in certain places and they come back with my fuel pumps not getting the vultures and needs because you have a faulty fuel pump well obviously that it wasn't the case now the fuel pump works perfectly fine and I'm driving around and I'm driving around because I have to jump pins 87 and 30 of the crank relay even thouugh the relays are new. but it gets me where I need to go obviously embarrassing and quite a hassle and that's why I'm here trying to fix it so now that all those other things have been resolved because I spent quite a few hours outside on the side of the road fixing this with two tool bags and about I don't know 50 cars a minute going by me at 50 mph so to say the least not an ideal situation...

Diode is under the dash and is it supposed to be going both ways because I thought a diode's supposed to have electricity it's main function was to have electricity only going through one Direction and when I use the multimeter and ohm tested it it's has it going both directions now as far as being electrician you are totally 100% right I know nothing when it comes to this but like I said before I've tried to have it diagnostic work and I don't have money to just throw away because they want to you know play their shenanigans so if you have the answer to why would a relay pen being jumped but a good relay not working if you could answer that one question I would greatly appreciate it but there's probably a more in-depth conversation needed I'm sure because you know the cigarette lighter keeps blowing now and so maybe that's where my connection problem is because like I said no one's touched that starter since the factory installed it but but I do thank you for your willingness and expertise, Jesse

Sorry I thought I could post more than one picture at a time that's what my scanner says which is odd if there's all these problems and here's the picture of the diode

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