How can I fix my overheating problem?

If there are no leak,s,and no fluid lost,and car has no skip,you may want to check the fan clutch,may be bad ,not turning properly will do this.

Ohhh I also forgot to mention that I've changed the fan as well and replaced it with a high performance 2360 cfm fan, which worked well when I had barely installed it but within 2 days the temperature started rising again. With the stock fan the temperature would exceed it's boiling point which is 300° , But with the upgraded fan it still boils over reaching 265-270°

Good old corvettes ... Has the motor been rebuilt ? Bored cyl.cause more heat transfer from cyl. To the water jacket.. Vets are always having this problem .. Big motors in small spaces.. You can try / radiator with a bigger core or a universal electric fan to assist clutch fan... If you have the space to mount it.. Good luck..

Clearly system heat is not being released. Are you certain there is no air pocket, and coolant is flowing freely? Hoses firm & under pressure? Even new radiators, thermostats and water pumps can have issues. Is it possible someone used a stop leak product at some time? This can clog engine coolant galleries, or restrict them, a flush or fiber optic inspection may reveal blockage. Recheck your new water pump that it is directing coolant properly, GM has several that will fit but pump in different directions. My bet is something is impeding coolant flow, that high performance fan alone you installed would remove enough heat. Try these forums also: corvetteactioncenter.com digitalcorvettes.com corvetteforums.com also your local corvette club if you don't belong already. cheers.

Have someone with a hear sensor gun shoot your engine and find where the hot spots are. If they are in the heads, the water flow jackets may be plugged. I had this problem several years ago and after tearing the heads off, discovered the gaskets were a universal style made for several motors. Some of my water jackets were blocked by the gasket. The gaskets had perforations to open the water jacked holes if there were ones that were blocked by the "universal" gaskets. If you upped the horse power of the engine, remember, there are more houses under the hood and more HP equates to more heat. Make sure the heat gauge is working correctly and the heat sensor is good. If you are using the A/C in town and it heats up, pop the hood release and see if the additional release of air around the hood helps increase the air flow and reduce the trapped heat. Just don't slam on the brakes as the hood may open. Normally the driving will produce enough air down draft to keep the hood in place. Do you have a proper radiator cap? That has been an issue in the past for people also. Little things can create big problems. Also is the radiator fluid the proper mix? Do check the direction of the water pump as suggested above. Morons in parts stores sometimes don't know there are two different directional flow pumps and don't check or ask what you need.

Did you flush the system , and add new water and antifreeze??

Jump the relay connection to the fuse box. Fan will run when you start the car. Such a simple and great way to cool em down.

Skip all the other responses I have the fix it for you the problem is not stay on long enough what I did was this it I sent mine at 200 degrees the heating sensor will slip right into the radiator fins you mount the control anywhere you want and you wire it right into the heating cooling fan relay very easy to do takes about 10 minutes and your problem will be solved cost me $17 by yourself online a switch that will turn on the thermostat at a temperature that you desire I sent mine to 200 degrees you mount the control anywhere you want in your wire at Rite Aid to the relay that controls the fan takes about 10 minutes problem solved