Why won't my truck stay cranked?

Asked by Crystal Apr 04, 2020 at 04:16 PM about the 1993 Ford Ranger STX Extended Cab 4WD SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have changed the whole fuel system
and it still wont stayed cranked. Idk
what to do with it. It's my son's 1st
truck and i wanna get it running so he
can get a job and stat life. Ahhh HELP.

4 Answers

290

"... still won't stay cranked." ? Do you mean it won't start, or won't keep running once it starts, or that the starter drops out of engagement while cranking the engine over, or what?

It will crank and run till it gets hot then it will not crank back up until like the next day. We have done everything but put a cam sensor in and we r waiting on it to arrive. It has a whole new fuel system almost and still nothing.

We have put 45 dollar spark plugs, timing fixed, crank sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, coil box and fuel injectors. Waiting on cam sensor to arrive.

290

If it runs that long, and you've already replaces the fuel FILTER, there a high likelihood that its NOT a problem in the fuel system. I've had the same thing as you describe happen on 4 different Ford products-and there are a LOT of other FORD products that had the same issue. For me, 3 times it was the ignition control module, (which is the most common cause of this problem) one time it was the throttle position sensor. (However, there is a possibiity that the cooland sensor OR the cooling fan fan is not working properly and the engine is overheating) All 4 of mine would dependably REstart after about 20-30 minutes-OR once the bad malfunctioning component cooled down enough. My suggestion is to try doing these-IN THIS ORDER. (you'll need 2 people for the first part) The important thing is to do all these steps before the engine has enough time for it to cool down enough for it to restart with no assistance, or you still won't know what is happening. So, if it takes too long, just let it run until it shuts itself off again and pick up after the last part you finished doing -when it still would not REstart. Start it up AT HOME and let it run until it shuts itself off. IMMEDIATELY remove one spark plug wire from whichever spark plug location is most convenient. (you should make sure that the plug wire is easily removeable ahead of time while the engine is still cold-to help avoiding a burn) WHILE WEARING HEAVY GLOVES or using a thick DRY rag hold the spark plug end of the loose spark plug wire so that the terminal INSIDE the spark plug BOOT is CLOSE TO BUT NOT TOUCHING either a heavy metal part attached directly to the engine that is not involved with the fuel system or else use the STILL INSTALLED spark plug from which the wire was removed. (you'll have to push the plug wire down further into its boot if the wire's terminal is recessed more than about 1/4". IF YOU CANNOT MOVE THE SPARK PLUG WIRE THROUGH THE BOOT, don't force it, just skip this whole part and go to the ignition control module part. WHILE THE WIRE IS SO POSITIONED, try starting the engine. There should be a noticible spark from the end of the loose spark plug wire to the plug or to the alternate ground location used. You may not SEE the spark, but you should at least HEAR it. If you don't get a spark, try another ground location on the enginr-it helps if the point you are using is CLEAN and rust free-(so you may have to scrape it first). IF THERE IS NO SPARK after a couple tries, you can be pretty sure the problem is in the ignition circuitry, not with the fuel. SO, now reattach the spark plug wire and if the engine still won't start do the following. (THIS TESTS THE IGNITION CONTROL MODULE FOR HEAT SENSITIVITY.) HOLD A BAG OF ICE directly against the ignition control module for a minute or 2 and then try to restart the engine.(it should be either attached to the distributor or mounted on the firewall-the distributor location is where it fails the most often) If it THEN restarts, that just about clinches it. If it does NOT start, try the ice bag routine on the throttle position sensor. A double check that you've isolated the problem, (before running out to spend more money) let the engine cool down for at least a couple hours ATTEMPT TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE NOT HOT ENOUGH FOR IT TO SHUT ITSELF OFF. Start the engine. IMMEDIATELY focus a hair dryer directly on the ignition control module, or as close as you can get to it so there is a strong flow of HOT air getting to it. IF its too heat sensitive this should kill the engine. IF it does, do the ice bag routine once again and you'll be certain.

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